kopi-tiam: coffee shop
penang and bidor, malaysia
summer 2022
The Kopitiam is synonymous with Malaysian life. Commonly found in urban areas with large populations of overseas Chinese, these social hubs are where many enjoy some of the best food Malaysia has to offer. There is always a Kopitiam open at any hour, whether you crave a hearty breakfast or an afternoon tea. As cooks furiously work their woks at their hawker carts while patrons shout over each other in order to be heard — you can’t help but feel the vivid, restless energy that permeates throughout a busy coffee shop. Everything about it feels alive. This is my love letter to that feeling.
Loh Bak Stall, Kimberly Street, Penang
Loh Bak consists of five-spiced marinated pork wrapped in beancurd skin, which is then fried and served with a starchy sauce.
It's typically served with fried tofu (tau kwa) and prawn fritters.
This particular stall in Kimberly Street is one of few that offers boiled octopus.
Kway Chap Stall, Kimberly Street, Penang
Fried Noodle Stall, Kimberly Street, Penang
Kuching Lane Kopitiam, Penang
Penang Hokkien Mee is starkly different from the Singapore and KL versions of the dish; yellow egg noodles, thin vermicelli, and boiled prawns swim in a fiery-red, spicy prawn and pork broth.
Many Malaysians rely on the iconic metal tiffin carrier when ordering Kopitiam spoils to-go.
Kopitiams reflect Malaysia's makeup as a multiethnic society; something that connects Malaysians together is their love for each other's food. Apom, a type of Indian pancake, was a childhood favorite of mine.
Pun Chun Kopitiam, Bidor
While the bustling streets of downtown Penang do not compare to the small, quiet town of Bidor, one thing remains the same: Kopitiams are where the community comes together.
Throughout Malaysia, food reveals the patterns of heavy migration. Starting in the 19th century, Bidor saw an influx of Southern Chinese immigrants. At Pun Chun, dark-colored Wanton Noodles and Roast Duck reflect a strong Cantonese heritage that dates back to the days of tin mining.
Relics of the past.
New World Park, Penang
Today, Kopitiams are evolving and including more than the average Malaysian fare. Venders are expanding to international cuisine, moving to bigger, organized food courts, and collaborating with delivery services.